The Moonboard: Taking it Easy

I have a new love – sorry semi-celebrity crush.

It is 3.15 meters high, 2.44 meters wide and is always at a 40 degree angle with a selection of pockets, edges, crimps and pinches. It is the Moonboard and they can be found all over the world.

IMG_5044

The best and the worst thing about the Moonboard is that it is hard.  The steep angle of the wall and the relatively small number of good holds makes the Moonboard nearly inaccessible for a beginner climber. Plus, many people absolutely despise the poppy climbing style that is absolutely necessary to complete many of the boulders.  This dynamic method of climbing puts you in many vulnerable positions where injury is assured if you are weak or tired in any way.

But, to say that no beginner climbers should try the Moonboard is exactly the type of elitism I despise in the climbing community.  So, I’ve put together a list of the easiest problems that I’ve found (so far) to get any climber started on their Moonboard obsession.

Keep in mind that all climbers should warm up dynamically for at least 10 minutes plus complete at least 20 minutes of climbing on a variety of terrain before beginning a Moonboard session.  Also, note that even the good Moonboard holds (ie 5F) can cause overuse injuries in the fingers, wrists, elbows and shoulders.  Stay safe!

Appetizers

Let’s start with the easiest problems to aquatint you with the better holds the board has to offer.  These problems, like most Moonboard problems, have high feet but they are always good and are easy for even tall reachers to stomp on.  Extra credit if you can keep your feet on.

SPOILER ALERT: I’ve put some beta spoilers under each picture so please skip reading these if you prefer to figure out your own beta!!! 

IMG_5045.jpg

Wuthering Heights is the most repeated 6B+ the Moonboard has to offer.  The trick here is to match or cross to the seashell (G13) and then establish those feet for the finish.

IMG_5046.jpg

Leto is a great starter problem because of the additional feet G2 & E8.

IMG_5051

Flash Gordon is a lot like Wuthering Heights but utilizing the high foot, H11, gets you ready for many of the other high and to the side footer problems you will encounter later in your Moonboard journey.

Main Course

Next, are problems that are focused on big moves, at least one bad hold and once again, high feet.  Try to keep your feet on for a bonus surprise.   Just kidding – but really, you should be able to keep your feet on for these.

IMG_5047

The Nice and Easy is a great problem for establishing that critical seashell match on G13 and potentially getting that foot onto ‘the hoof’ H10.  Unlike the previously suggested problems, you’ll skip the dog ear, E15, and progress to an equally decent but further hold – the tiny knob E16.

IMG_5050

Klingon Easy is all about hip-body position from the awkward start holds up to the finish.  It utilizes one of my favorite holds – the elephant ear F14.

IMG_5054.jpg

Warm Me Up, with its wide selection of holds offers a challenging cross to ‘the zag’ D12, plus a brilliant, but also optional meathook of the elephant ear F14.  More difficult crosses await you in your Moonboarding journey so think of this as a progression. Overall, this problem is a great and steady introduction to one of the more despised finish holds I18.  I’d tell you the name I have for this hold but it is not polite to say in public.

Dessert

Finally, the best for last, the least technical 6C (V5) on the Moonboard.  Go ahead and match the hoof, stab for the elephant ear and throw up that tragically high (and scary) heel hook because you’re going to send! Make sure you give G17 a good brush beforehand.

IMG_5049

I’m working on a 6C progression list for climbers who are ready to put up those v5 bench marks so stay tuned and have fun!

Reference: I’m 170.18 cm with a positive ape index and decent hip mobility (which is subjective).

Advertisements

2 thoughts on “The Moonboard: Taking it Easy

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out /  Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out /  Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out /  Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out /  Change )

Connecting to %s